In our
continuing efforts to immerse ourselves in the county’s culture, we sallied
forth westwards, Alan Stone’s “Somerset Cider Handbook” in hand. Like some of
the product itself, the image of cider has been a bit rough over the years. A
yokel dozing in a hayrick, half-emptied flagon of “scrumpy” by his side… that
sort of thing. But I’m delighted to say that the West Country’s answer to wine
is undergoing something of a renaissance and, in addition to the Big Boys
churning the stuff out by the tankerful, there are a number of small-scale
makers akin to the micro-breweries of the beer business.
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So much better than its name suggests... |
This
revival hasn’t necessarily led to universally available top quality stuff – there is
still cider out there that is so sweet it will rot your teeth and some so acidic
it will rip the enamel off any teeth you may have left… But thanks to Lilley’s
Cider Barn in Frome I’ve been sampling a variety of the local product and have
found one that really hits the spot. Sadly it has a ridiculous name, but you
can’t judge a book by its cover, so Janet’s Jungle Juice from West Croft Farm
near Highbridge gets my vote. It's fruity and dry, refreshing and satisfying – that seems to me to be
the perfect combination.
So we went
to meet John Harris, the producer of aforementioned Juice, and taste some at
source. John is a quiet, friendly man who led us into his barn and gave us
tasters of both the latest JJJ and his West Croft Dry (also recommended). He told
us that (unlike some producers) he adds no sweeteners to his cider, nor does he
blend them after pressing – the blending is all done in the selection of the
apples. He also, encouragingly, is cutting down on the use of sulphites, the
whiff of which is often the first olfactory encounter one has with a cider.
We shall definitely
return to John’s farm at the bottom of Brent Knoll, but we will not rush back
to Rich’s. I’d enjoyed a glass of their output at The Cornerhouse in Frome, so
thought it was also worth a visit as it’s not too far from West Croft. But it’s
a million miles away in terms of “the experience”. This is the cider farm as
coach party destination: large car park, restaurant and a shop full of touristy
knick-knacks. No tastings were on offer and the single member of staff we encountered was not particularly helpful
– despite their ciders being split into “Scrumpy” (ie on draught, still and,
assumedly, unpasteurised) and “Farmhouse” (pre-bottled, slightly sparkling and pasteurised),
the assistant labelled them the same. Their dry scrumpy is pleasant enough, but
not a patch on what John Harris is managing to produce on what I am sure is a
fraction of Rich’s turnover. When it comes to cider making, small would appear
to be beautiful.
PS It's a pleasure to be able to report that Frome With A View has just played host to its 1000th viewer. Now, apart from the occasional poster (whose comments are always much appreciated) I do, of course, have absolutely no idea who all these people are. I'm sure most of them have only ended up on this page because "Frome" is Lithuanian for "Porn" or some such. But, whoever and wherever you are, you are very, very welcome. Do leave a comment. If only to say how disappointed you are by the absence of naked women (or men)...